Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always shaped its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to discover these stories and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
